Cleaning a monitor
A bright, even screen makes dust, smudges and fingerprints obvious. Check first, power the display off, then wipe with a dry microfibre cloth.
Click the panel below and your whole display turns pure white. Use it to spot dust before you clean a monitor, to add soft fill light on a video call, or to hunt down dead pixels. Nothing to install, nothing to sign up for, and it keeps working after you go offline.
Click the screen or press F. Press Esc to exit. · 100% free. No sign-up. Works offline.
Click or tap the preview panel. Your browser switches to true fullscreen and hides every menu bar and toolbar.
Use the brightness slider and the colour temperature control to get exactly the light you need. Your settings are remembered on this device.
Clean, test, light or focus. Move the mouse or tap once to bring the controls back at any time.
Press Esc, or tap the close button in the corner, to return to this page.
A bright, even screen makes dust, smudges and fingerprints obvious. Check first, power the display off, then wipe with a dry microfibre cloth.
A dead pixel stays black on white; a stuck pixel glows red, green or blue on black. Cycling solid colours is still the fastest way to find both.
A white or warm-white screen beside your face fills in shadows far better than a ceiling light, and costs nothing.
A tablet running a solid colour makes a usable fill light, catch light or small backdrop for product shots.
A tablet on maximum brightness under thin paper works as an improvised light table for tracing and flip-book animation.
A blank screen hides your desktop during a presentation and removes visual clutter while you concentrate.
Yes. Every tool on this site is free, with no account, no trial and no paid tier. You do not need to give us an email address.
Yes. The whole site is built mobile-first and works in Safari on iPhone and iPad, Chrome on Android, and every modern desktop browser. On iOS, fullscreen uses a full-viewport mode because Safari restricts the fullscreen API.
Yes. After your first visit the page is cached on your device, so you can open it again with no internet connection at all.
No. Displaying a solid colour is exactly what your screen does all day. The one caution is OLED: leaving a static bright image on an OLED panel for hours can cause temporary image retention, which is why we include an optional burn-in protection mode.
We do not ask for a name, an email or an account, and no image ever leaves your device — every tool renders locally in your browser.
A uniform bright field removes the visual pattern that normally hides dirt. Dust, grease and fingerprints scatter light and become obvious against solid white, where they are nearly invisible against a normal desktop. Check on white, then check again on black — black reveals dust that white hides, and white reveals smears that black hides.
A dead pixel receives no power and stays black on a white background; it is permanent. A stuck pixel is permanently powered and glows red, green or blue on a black background; it can sometimes be revived by rapid colour cycling or very light, careful pressure on an LCD.
Yes, and it works better than most people expect. A monitor or tablet showing white is a large, diffuse light source, which is what flattering light actually is. Place it in front of you and slightly above eye level, set brightness around 80 to 90 percent, and warm it slightly if your room has warm bulbs so the two sources do not clash.
Yes, through the TV's built-in browser. If that browser is too limited to go fullscreen, download a white image at your TV's native resolution, copy it to a USB stick and open it in the photo viewer instead — that route also avoids any browser overlay appearing on screen.
Usually a software layer rather than the panel: brightness below maximum in the controls, a system night-light or blue-light filter warming everything, or an eco picture mode on the display. Set the colour temperature slider to neutral and turn off any night mode before concluding the screen has a tint.
Yes. The screens and downloaded images are free to use for personal and commercial work with no attribution required. The only things you may not do are resell the site itself and use the prank screens to actually deceive someone.
Not inherently. What causes strain is a screen much brighter than the room around it, held for a long time without blinking. Match the screen brightness to your surroundings, look at something distant every twenty minutes, and dim it at night.
No. It runs in the browser. You can optionally install it as an app from your browser menu, which adds an icon to your home screen or desktop and makes it launch instantly with no address bar — but that is a convenience, not a requirement.
A white screen tool does one deceptively useful thing: it turns your entire display into a single, controllable, evenly lit surface. That sounds trivial until you need it. A running desktop is a patchwork of icons, windows and colours, and that patchwork hides things — dust, smears, a dead pixel, a patch of uneven backlight. Remove the pattern and the flaws have nowhere to hide.
The same property makes a screen a decent light source. Your monitor is a large, diffuse, flicker-controlled panel that you can dim and warm on demand. Photographers pay real money for exactly those characteristics in a softbox. You already own one.
Everything on this site runs in your browser. No image is uploaded, no account is created, and nothing is processed on a server — which is also why every tool keeps working after you lose your connection.
Different faults hide behind different colours. Using only white is the single most common mistake people make when testing a screen.
| Colour | What it reveals | Use it when |
|---|---|---|
| White | Dust, grease, fingerprints, dead pixels (black dots), yellowing, tint differences between zones | Cleaning, and the first pass of any pixel test |
| Black | Stuck pixels (bright dots), backlight bleed, IPS glow, clouding | In a dim room, for anything to do with light leakage |
| Red, green, blue | A single failed sub-pixel inside an otherwise working pixel | After white and black, to catch what both missed |
| Mid grey | Uneven brightness, dirty-screen effect, early OLED burn-in | The most sensitive uniformity test there is |
| Yellow, cyan, magenta | Colour mixing errors and banding | Checking a panel after a calibration change |
| Warm white | Flattering, neutral face lighting | Video calls in a room with warm bulbs |
A complete pass takes about a minute: white, black, red, green, blue, then mid grey. The dead pixel test cycles those automatically, and the monitor test adds gradients, a grid and a text sharpness page.
| Key | Does |
|---|---|
| F | Enter or leave fullscreen |
| Esc | Leave fullscreen |
| Enter / Space | Toggle fullscreen when the screen panel has keyboard focus |
| Tab | Move through every control — the whole page is keyboard operable |
| Click / tap | Enter fullscreen; while fullscreen, advance to the next step in a test |
| F11 | Browser fullscreen, if a locked-down browser blocks the page from requesting it |
Click the screen or press F. If nothing happens, your browser or a group policy is blocking the Fullscreen API — press F11 instead, which achieves the same thing at the browser level.
Click the screen or press F. To keep the menu bar hidden, use the page's own fullscreen rather than the green window button. If you are testing an external display, drag the browser window onto that display first.
Safari restricts the Fullscreen API on non-video elements, so this site switches to a full-viewport mode instead: the screen fills the whole window and everything else is hidden. Two things worth doing first — turn off True Tone and Night Shift in Settings, since both tint the display, and set Auto-Lock to a longer interval so the screen does not sleep mid-test.
Chrome supports true fullscreen. Turn off adaptive or automatic brightness before testing, otherwise the phone will quietly change brightness while you are looking at a white field and any uniformity judgement becomes meaningless.
Open this page in the TV's built-in browser and go fullscreen. If the browser is too limited, the more reliable route is to download a white image at your TV's native resolution, put it on a USB stick, and open it in the TV's photo viewer. That also removes any risk of the browser overlaying its own UI.
The fullscreen key on the top row works, as does F. Managed school devices sometimes block the Fullscreen API; the fullscreen key still works because it is handled by the OS.
Full detail in the monitor cleaning guide.
Finding something is easy. Knowing whether it matters is the part most tools skip.
A dead pixel stays black on a white field — its transistor has failed and it gets no power. It is permanent. A stuck pixel glows red, green or blue on a black field — it is permanently powered, and it can sometimes be recovered by rapid colour cycling or very light pressure.
Almost nobody replaces a panel for one dead sub-pixel. Typical manufacturer thresholds sit somewhere between three and six defective sub-pixels, often stricter in the centre of the screen than at the edges, and they differ by brand, model and product tier. Check your own manufacturer's dead-pixel policy before you start a claim — and if you do colour work, a zero-bright-dot warranty is the specification worth paying for next time.
Move your head. If the pale haze in the corner moves with you, it is IPS glow — inherent to the panel type and not a defect. If it stays exactly where it is, it is backlight bleed. Judge it at your normal brightness in a dimly lit room, never at maximum brightness in the dark, and never from a long-exposure phone photo, which makes a perfectly normal panel look ruined.
Before you conclude anything, clean the screen. A speck of dust and a dead sub-pixel are indistinguishable at arm's length, and this is the single most common false alarm.
Sometimes a browser is in the way — a TV photo viewer, a digital signage player, a video editor that needs a solid background, a print layout. The download button writes the exact colour you are looking at, including your brightness and warmth adjustments, as a lossless PNG.
| Resolution | Pixels | Good for |
|---|---|---|
| Fit my screen | Your display, at its real pixel density | Wallpapers and anything you will view on this device |
| 1080p | 1920 × 1080 | Video backgrounds, streaming overlays, most TVs |
| 1440p | 2560 × 1440 | Desktop wallpaper on a QHD monitor |
| 4K | 3840 × 2160 | 4K TVs, signage, video editing timelines |
| 8K | 7680 × 4320 | Large-format print, upscaling headroom, future-proofing |
PNG is used rather than JPEG on purpose: JPEG compression introduces faint blocking artefacts even in a flat colour field, which is exactly what you do not want in an image you are using as a reference or a test pattern.
Some browsers, kiosk modes and managed devices block a page from requesting fullscreen. Press F11 on Windows or Linux, or use the fullscreen key on a Chromebook — those are handled by the browser and the OS rather than by the page.
Turn on Keep screen awake in the controls. It uses the browser's Wake Lock API, which is supported in Chrome, Edge, Safari 16.4 and later, and most modern Android browsers. If the toggle is not shown, your browser does not support it — extend your system sleep timeout instead.
Three usual causes. Brightness is below 100 in the controls. Your system has a night-light or blue-light filter running, which warms and dims everything. Or the display's own picture mode is set to a low-brightness preset such as eco or reading mode. Rule out the software layers before you blame the panel.
Set the colour temperature slider back to neutral first. If it is still tinted, the tint is coming from the display — check for a warm picture mode, then look at the monitor's own RGB gain settings. The calibration guide walks through fixing that by eye.
That is adaptive brightness reacting to the bright screen. Turn it off in system settings for the duration of the test, otherwise any brightness or uniformity comparison is worthless.
Check that your browser is not blocking automatic downloads for this site, and that you have storage space. On iOS the file lands in the Files app under Downloads, not in the photo library.
On an LCD, yes. On an OLED, turn on OLED burn-in protection, which shifts brightness slightly every thirty seconds, and lower the brightness. A static bright image for hours is the one scenario OLED panels genuinely dislike — see preventing OLED burn-in.
Longer, plain-English write-ups on the things this tool only touches on: